Downtown Srinagar’s alleys are more than mere pathways—they’re a vibrant mosaic of gossip, commerce, and culture, pulsing with life. This historic city seamlessly connects the present to its storied past, echoing with tales of poets and rulers.
By Umar Hayat Hussain
As you approach Shehr e Khas commonly known as Downtown Srinagar, settled along the majestic banks of the Jhelum River, the timeless allure of the city begins to unfold. The entrance is lined with small, crimson-bricked tiles, their rustic hues beautifully complemented by grand entrance and exit doors coated with crisp white paint. Above, wooden rooftops painted in soft shades of green add a subtle elegance to the historic skyline.
Marking the threshold to this ancient metropolis is Brari Nambal, a serene and humble lake that mirrors the essence of Downtown Srinagar. Its tranquil waters reflect a city steeped in history, beckoning you to explore the winding alleys and historic landmarks. Despite unstable situation during past few decades, Srinagar’s residents continue to hold fast to their rich cultural heritage, infusing life into every corner of the old city.
Situated on the banks of the river Vyeth (Jhelum), Downtown Srinagar is a living testament to the unity in diversity that binds its people together. In the narrow alleys of the city, known locally as Shahar-e-Khaas, life pulses with activity. People gossip, shop, and engage in their daily routines, creating a vibrant communal life.
In the cool early dawn, the city is still, save for the soft breeze whispering through its streets. Abdul Qadeer, an octogenarian with a serene face, prepares to offer the Azaan from the nearby shrine of Abdul Qadir Geelani (R.A). “Though the saint never visited this place, the people here are deeply connected to him and the Qadriyah Sufi order,” he reflects. Clad in a close-fitted shalwar kameez, with a finely woven tosh shawl wrapped around him, Qadeer’s gaze darkens with memories of the 2012 fire that engulfed the shrine. “My life has revolved around this sacred place,” he sighs. “The fire was a great loss—not just for me, but for the entire valley. People were wailing outside the shrine as it was consumed by flames.” Today, the shrine has been lovingly restored, its new structure standing proudly on the same platform, preserving the sanctity that draws thousands of devotees.
As you venture deeper into the city, Khanyar Park, a brisk walk from the shrine, serves as a solemn reminder of the armed rebellion that erupted in the valley in the late 20th century. Once a place of leisure, the park has since been transformed into a burial ground, a symbol of the lives lost in the conflict. The twisting alleys of Downtown, lined with mounds of garbage, overflowing drains, and tightly packed houses with rusted tin roofs, stand in stark contrast to the snow-capped ridges of the Himalayas in the distance.
On the 3rd of Rabi-ul-Awal, the city is abuzz with the faithful, young and old alike, flocking to offer Khawaja Digar, the 400-year-old tradition of Asr prayers at the shrine of Hazrat Baha-ud-din Naqshbandi (R.A). The streets leading to the shrine are filled with worshippers, the crush of humanity overwhelming. “I left early to secure a place inside,” says Farooq Ahmad, a local devotee, “but even so, I had to pray outside due to the sheer number of people.” Within the shrine’s green-carpeted lawns, rows of gravestones mark the resting places of those long passed, their names slowly fading under the weight of time. It was here, in 1699, that the holy relic of Prophet Muhammad (s.a.w)’s hair was first housed in Kashmir. The compound is also home to the graves of the 22 martyrs of 1931, who defied the Maharaja’s rule.
Just a short walk from Nowhatta Chowk, the grandeur of Jama Masjid rises before you, its striking wood and brick architecture embodying the spirit of the city. On Fridays, the mosque is a hub of activity, as throngs of people from across the valley gather to hear the chief cleric’s sermon. Today, his words ring with urgency as he addresses the growing epidemic of drug addiction among the valley’s youth, calling it a “national emergency.” Citing Quranic teachings and Hadith, he emphasizes the harmful effects of narcotics, declaring, “Each life is precious in the eyes of Allah, and it is our collective duty to protect this gift.”
A short distance away, the tomb of Budshah, Kashmir’s last great Muslim ruler, stands as a monument to a time when the valley flourished under his rule. Raised on a stone plinth, the square structure, crowned with five domes, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. “This is one of the city’s most unique structures,” says Faisal Ahmad, a local resident, admiring the artistry of the era.
At the heart of the city, the imposing Afghan-built Hari Parbat Fort dominates the skyline. Renowned Kashmiri poet Zareef Ahmad Zareef recalls childhood memories of walking to the fort during the annual Urs of Makhdoom Sahib. “I remember hearing a loud explosion from the fort when I was just eight years old,” he says with a smile. “It was the Maharaja’s cannon, firing to mark the time of day.”
As you wander through Downtown’s narrow lanes, the tantalizing aroma of spicy meat wafting from tandoors greets you. A favorite among locals, these delicacies offer a glimpse into the area’s simpler culinary traditions. The Zaroo gun factory, once known for its high-quality firearms, has seen its craft diminish since the insurgency began in the 1990s. “We used to make many guns,” recalls one craftsman, “but now, this art is dying.”
Yet, amidst these changes, the spirit of enterprise endures. In the interior lanes, Ghulam Qadir Shenoo’s pickle shop thrives, its pungent spices drawing customers from all over the world. Tourists from as far as Italy, Saudi Arabia, and Indonesia come to sample the rich flavors of his homemade pickles, a testament to Downtown’s unique blend of tradition and innovation.
As the day draws to a close, the city’s spiritual pulse beats strongest at the shrine of Hazrat Sheikh Noor-ud-din, a revered saint who brought Islam and the arts to the valley. “It was through his efforts that so many Kashmiris embraced Islam,” says Ashiq Ahmad. The faithful chant the Awrad ul-Fateh, a litanies of prayers said to be the saint’s greatest gift to the valley’s people.
In the evenings, as families gather around the warmth of the kangri, Downtown Srinagar transforms. The soft glow of stars above and the hum of life below create a magical atmosphere, where history and modernity converge in this storied city. The sounds of copperware being hammered, the call to prayer, and the chatter of vendors selling their wares fill the air. Through it all, Srinagar remains resilient, its charm a powerful draw for those who seek a deeper connection with the heart of Kashmir.
The views expressed in this article are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or views of this Magazine. The author can be reached at [email protected]
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